Pre-owned watches are in vogue - there's no doubt about that. And if you talk to enthusiasts and buyers of such treasures, the bracelet is always a big topic.
And Thomas Krim - the “master of parts” - has now taken up this challenge. He is the owner of the Ernst Westphal company, which is a spare parts Eldorado for watches and movements of almost every type and era.
However, his new service is not simply about replacing the metal strap. Many collectors want to keep their pre-owned watch as original as possible - including the strap.
That is why Krim now offers the restoration of worn metal bracelets made of steel and precious metals, from Rolex to Cartier, Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe. It all starts with a free, no-obligation initial assessment of the restoration costs based on photos and a checklist.
“In particular, it should be emphasized that this service is also available for the highly coveted folded and riveted Oyster bracelets from Rolex, which makes us the only company of its kind.” - Thomas Krim
WatchPro: Pre-owned watches are in vogue and the subject of watch straps has long since shed its Sleeping Beauty existence. How is it that you are one of the few who offer the restoration of metal bracelets?
Thomas Krim: The professional restoration of metal bracelets requires great skill, experience and a variety of special tools.
“The manufacturers have no interest in this, as they prefer to sell new straps, which are much more expensive.” - Thomas Krim
Some goldsmiths have taken on this painstaking work, but they lack the experience and the right spare parts to repair the popular “riveted” Oyster bracelets from Rolex, for example.
As we have seen increasing demand in recent years, we have decided to offer professional bracelet restoration services.
WP: What kind of metal straps do you restore and from which brands?
TK: We restore all Rolex bracelet models, including the rare folded and riveted Oyster bracelets from the sixties and seventies, for which we can also offer extension with additional links or the professional removal of individual links.
In addition, all Audemars Piguet bracelet models, such as the “Royal Oak”, all Cartier and Patek Philippe bracelet models. This applies to all materials, i.e. steel bracelets, bicolor bracelets or the high-quality and expensive bracelets made of solid precious metals.
WP: What is the main work that needs to be done on these bracelets? And what other work can you carry out?
TK: The bracelets are professionally cleaned in several stages, completely dismantled and all pins are removed from the links. All worn parts of the belt such as pins, sleeves and individual link parts are replaced or refurbished.
After reassembly, the original finish of the straps is carefully restored by polishing and/or matting. The manufacturer's logos on the strap are delicately refurbished. Additional links can be fitted on request. After a final cleaning and inspection, the strap is ready for courier shipment to its owner.
WP: Do you carry out the work yourself or do you have partners?
TK: We have developed the work process together with a partner and set up a special workshop whose equipment and know-how specializes in bracelet restoration.
WP: At what point is a metal bracelet a lost cause?
TK: Never really. In most cases, defective or missing parts can be reworked and replaced, and almost anything can be restored with a great deal of meticulousness and dedication. It's just a question of cost, which has to be carefully weighed up.
WP: Do you have any tips on how to keep a metal band in good condition for as long as possible?
TK: You should have a metal strap professionally cleaned regularly - preferably ultrasonically - to remove skin sweat and grease, which penetrates even the smallest cracks and combines with the dust and dirt in the air to form a paste-like mass that has an abrasive effect and increases wear.
This is particularly true for bands made of softer precious metals. Due to the regular use of body lotions and sunscreens, ladies' bracelets are often subject to far greater wear than the bracelets of men's watches.
About Ernst Westphal e.K.
Ernst Westphal's customers include trained watchmakers and master watchmakers as well as collectors, enthusiasts, hobbyists and amateur watchmakers. The range of the furniturist comprises over eight million parts, including numerous spare parts as well as watchmaking supplies, accessories and accessories.
The Hamburg furnishing specialist was founded in 1898 under the name Meusel & Gerling and was taken over by Ernst Westphal 40 years later. By the turn of the millennium, the company was known far beyond the borders of Hamburg and also far beyond the borders of Europe. When it comes to watch spare parts and watchmaking supplies, there is almost nothing that is not available here.
On the 110th anniversary, Thomas Krim took over and became the sole owner. Now he is in “retirement”, as he himself reports, and is leaving the management to his wife Diana Krim. But the passionate watch tinkerer is still actively involved in the background and tries to make the impossible - the purchase or even the production of rare spare parts - possible.
Out of print? A word that does not apply to Ernst Westphal. Thanks to his worldwide network, Thomas Krim and his employees are able to source even the rarest parts. In addition, Ernst Westphal commissions highly specialized factories in Germany and Switzerland to manufacture new spare parts for high-quality movements that have long been out of stock. This means that spare parts for almost all well-known brands and calibers can be offered.
Source: https://de.watchpro.com/fast-wie-neu-metallarmbander-von-pre-owned-uhren/